Walking the Heaphy Track

From February 7 through to February 11, I have been solo tramping through Kahurangi National Park on the Heaphy Track. As would be expected it was an awesome experience and over the next wee while I am going to post up some notes from the track, staring with my journal, written each night on my journey.

Day 1: 7 Feb 2018

Off to a propitious start, losing my drink bottle somewhere between home and the start of the track. I'd like to think it fell out of my pack on the bus, but there's also a good chance I just left it behind... Many thanks to Laurel, fellow tramper, who has lent me one of her water canisters for the duration of the trip - our schedule is the same.

First bridge on the Heaphy track

 The Heaphy track rises steadily during the 5 hour hike from Brown Hut to the Perry Saddle Hut. After parting with others from the bus trip I didn't see another soul until right before the Aorere shelter. This campsite is located 1 hours walk from Perry Saddle and it was here that I fell into step with Case, a German camper intending to stay at Aorere, then Gouland Downs, before catching up to my plan at Mackay Hut. Living mostly in New Zealand since '83, but in Germany for the last few years, Case was a wealth of information (and tall stories) about European long distance trails, pack weights, and travel in general. We talked for nearly an hour before I had to head on towards Perry Saddle, hoping that I will catch up with him further down the line.

New Zealand Bush Robin

The track today passes a side-trip to the highest point on the track, Flanagans Corner (915m), which I visited as much for the name as for the feeling of completeness - I have Flanagan relatives on my mother's side. The views from this "highest point" were actually a little disappointing, partly obscured by scrub and hemmed in by the surrounding mountains. However I shall not complain about the bush, as it was very pleasant walking in the shade.Though the gradient is fairly gentle I must admit to some relief at finally sighting the hut - my legs are rather unused to this sort of work. Though I've lost weight since my last trek (my pack and I together weight less than I used to!), I had actually been training for that, and it shows.

View from Flanagans Corner

Most of the walking today was through beech forest, of particular note were those trees decked in black sooty mould and honeydew - basis of an incredible eco-system in New Zealand beech forests. I am a bit concerned at how few trees I saw with the characteristic fungus, and those trees I did see were heavily populated by wasps. Talking to the DOC ranger this evening I found that the non-native wasps damage the honeydew-producing scale insect as they collect its bounty, and may be affecting the delicate balance of these symbiotic relationships. On one particularly wasp-covered tree I watched as wasps occasionally fell from the bark. I'm unsure if they were affected by fermented honeydew or if they were just getting in fights with each other and/or the ants also competing for the bounty.

A tree full of "NOPE"

Learn more about scale insect and the honeydew ecosystem

I also made friends with a bush robin and her fluff-feathered follower (presumably her chick). These bold little birds are very curious and when I scratched in the dirt she approached within inches of my hand. Other birds seen included bellbirds, tomtits, and one very tiny rifleman - a true ornithological treat!

Heading now to the "Mountain Spa", likely to be very refreshing!

 

Mountain Spa!