Not All Those Who Wander Are Lost: Hawick and Turnbulls

Gosh I have been slacking!

Deepest apologies for missing days, I think have time off the walking makes me lazy in other areas as well.

I had originally planned to walk to Hawick from Kirk Yetholm, in time for the Common Riding, and some Turnbull clan activities. However, as you know I finished the Pennine Way far sooner than expected so instead pushed on to Edinburgh. I took a bus back to Hawick Thursday afternoon, and arrived in time to check into my B&B and then head out to check out the town. Many shops are closed for the common riding, but I did luck into arriving in the street just in time to see the Cornet climb to tie ribbons on the horse rider statue.

The Common Riding is a festival event in many Border towns, a ceremony of riding out to mark the boundaries of the 'common'. The Hawick festival also celebrates a minor victory over the English. Legend tells that after the 1513 battle at Flodden, the area was much depleted of its menfolk, and English marauders raided the border towns unhindered. However, in 1514 a group of young 'callants', untried in battle, rode out of Hawick and defeated a band of Englishmen, taking their flag back to the village.
A representation of this flag is carried by the Cornet (an elected young man, a great honour) to lead the riders in the Hawick Common Riding.

On Friday morning I got up early to see the riders depart the town (only one woman, and a few girls in over 200 riders - but that's another discussion). People cheered as the Cornet went by, for their favourite riders, or if they felt they hadn't cheered in a while. I turned to a lady nearby as the last horses passed, and asked where I needed to be to see the other main events of the day. I was immediately hustled over to a local woman that the lady I'd spoken to was acquainted with, and introduced as I solo traveller in need of assistance for the day. Thus I got myself adopted by the extended Armstrong family.

The main activity for most people, especially on the Friday of the Common Riding, is to head up to the moor/racecourse and await the return of the riders. The waiting is spent picnicking (and drinking) with family and friends, and checking out the few stalls and funfair rides. It wouldn't be much fun on your own, as there really isn't a lot to do, but I had been taken under wing, and so spent the morning assisting with putting up the gazebo and then relaxing and socializing, and of course playing music. Then we all stood on the racecourse edge to watch the riders gallop in, wave after wave thundering by, only a few a little lopsided from the infamous rum and milk. It was a truly impressive site (and made me wish to ride again/more/better)

The following day I planned to join some Turnbull clan members for a climb up to Fatlips Castle, once held by the Turnbull clan, and in arranging transport had got myself invited to join the tour group for the day, including lunch and a visit to Jedburgh.
I had been told to meet up with Teeq, who was also staying in my B&B, but had failed to catch her the day before and was desperately hoping I'd see her over breakfast. Fortunately she was easy to spot, and surprised me by being younger than myself! From Utah, but now in Atlanta, she is an actor and stagehand, and we very quickly found common ground for conversation and friendship.

Fatlips Castle is pressed on top of the Minto crags, and has a spectacular view over the surrounding territory. The castle itself is a basic tower, and while the restoration work has replaced the roof and repaired the damage of neglect, it has not restored the 2 floors between the first level up and the roof. Brackets from the wall show where beams would have supported the floors, also demarcated by fireplaces and window seating. A spiral staircase takes visitors past the empty levels and out onto the battlements, to feel like masters of the land.